17 January 2013 - Melbourne to Johannesburg

We got the 7.30am flight to Sydney. Terry found the medical clinic at the airport so the doctor could administer the Clexane injection (blood thinner). All went well, very nice and helpful doctor. We are carrying a bundle of Clexane injections. For any flights longer than 8 hours Terry requires an injection before we fly and again once we land, to keep his blood thin and minimise the possibility of getting DVT.

We were an hour late leaving Sydney. There were only a few passengers in premium economy and business whereas economy was full. We had seats in premium economy behind the bulk head so lots of room for Terry to stretch out his leg and get up and down as often as he wanted.

We flew through the day so we didn't sleep much on the plane. Watched movies, read, did puzzles to pass the time. Terry was up and down a bit to stretch his legs.

Johannesburg airport was easy to get through. We found the medical centre so Terry could have another Clexane injection, there was a small charge of 50 rand which is about $6.

We jumped on the hotel shuttle bus for a 5 minute ride to the O.R. Tambo Southern Sun Hotel which is within the airport precinct. You can't walk to it as there aren't any footpaths and it's a jumble of roads and overpasses.

We met June & Kalman, the Canadian couple of the group in the hotel lobby as they were heading to the gym. We arranged to meet for dinner at 7ish in the hotel restaurant along with Maria and Steven, the American couple of the group. The meal was OK about what you'd expect for an airport hotel. We all headed off to bed around 9.

L-R: Steve, Maria, Kalman & June

18 January 2013 - Jo'burg to Kalahari Desert, Botswana

Woke about 3am, wide awake, listened to an audiobook and music until 6. Went down for breakfast at 7. Met up with the rest of our group and got the shuttle back to the airport at 8.30.

The plane to Maun, Botswana, was delayed nearly 2 hours which is apparently quite common. Nothing else to do but hang around the airport and look through the shops.

Arrived at Maun about 1pm. Tiny airport. There was a travel representative to meet us and take us to another lounge to wait for a smaller light plane to fly us to Tau Pan Camp in the Kalahari Desert.

Boarding the plane at Maun

Pam a bit sick on plane as she was tired and the flight was very noisy and glary. A bit unusual though. The flight took about an hour. We landed on a dirt airstrip and were met by our camp guide, Timber and our tracker, Carstom.

Another plane on it's way to Tau Pan Camp

On the short ride to the lodge went past a pride of lions that had just finished eating an oryx.. amazing.

Well fed lions!

We were allocated our cabins which were lovely, running hot and cold water, flushing toilet, lovely outlook.

Inside our cabin at Tau Pan

The outside of our cabin at Tau Pan

Weather mild, a bit overcast. Went out for a drive for 2 hours - springboks, impala & birds - just wonderful. Had a stop for a drink near a herd of impalas for 30 mins then back to the lodge for tea. We had a lovely meal and met other guests who had been at the camp for a few days. Its a very communal environment, exchanging stories about where you've been and where you're going.

"Rockin" Roller

Impala

Guinea Fowl

On safari in the jeep

Springbok

 Springbok

The crew 

Timber & Carstom making "Sundowner" drinks 

Everyone is escorted back to their cabins at night for safety reasons. There are no fences around the camp and some animals may move in close at night. If you need urgent attention during the night each cabin has a small horn beside the bed which you can use to get someone from the camp to come to your cabin. Understandably there is no communication coverage. The staff use radio or satellite phones to communicate with the outside world.

We hit the sack at 9.30pm exhausted. 

19 January 2013 - Tau Pan Camp, Kalahari Desert

We were woken up at 5am by our tracker, Timber. Thankfully you don't need to set an alarm, they come and wake you each morning. It was still dark but the sun was starting to come up.

Got dressed then off to the mess hall for a cuppa, muffin and cereal. We are allowed to walk to the mess hall on our own in the mornings as you can see what's around you, although if an animal was close by I think we'd be a bit nervous. You are meant to stand completely still if you do see anything which would be easier said than done.

Headed out in the jeep at 6 for our morning safari. The jeep is open on all sides with a canopy as a roof. There were two rows of seats for 3 people in each row. The rows are stepped so you are higher in the back row for easy vision over those in front. They provide plenty of water.

The Jeep

We saw kudu, oryx, wildebeest, springbok, impala, lion (very close), eagle, hawk, vulture, fox, ostrich, guinea fowl, other birds and colourful wildflowers. It rained a bit but they had heavy duty ponchos in the jeep. However Terry & Maria still got pretty wet as they were sitting on the side where the rain was blowing in. They did dry off by the time we got back to camp. Before we headed back to camp we stopped in the grasslands for a cuppa and biscuits.

Oryx 

Kudu 

Ostrich 

Storks 

Tau Pan Camp 

Lion "close up" 

Lions playing near the jeep 

We got back to the camp at 11 for brunch - eggs, toast, salad, cheese, other hot dishes. We all headed back to our cabins for a siesta until 4.

Back to the mess hall at 4 for a drink; whatever you wanted wine, beer, soft drink, tea, coffee etc and a bit to eat - cake, fruit, nibbles. You won't go hungry at these camps.

We took off at 4.30 for the afternoon safari drive. Saw lions again, just lazing under a couple of trees waiting for nightfall and their next hunting session. Passed herds of wildebeest, oryx, kudu and all sorts of birds. Stopped for a "sundowner", a gin and tonic for Terry and Pam, before heading back to camp. The light was amazing as the sun was starting to set.

Wildebeest 

"Rockin" Roller 

Fox 

Carstom preparing "Sundowner" drinks 

Kudu at sunset 

Sunset

Dinner at 7, bed at 9.30.

20 January 2013 - Tau Pan Camp, Kalahari Desert

Wake up call at 5am. Light breakfast, then off again for our morning safari at 6.

Headed west into the Kalahari Desert. We saw 4 giraffe off in the distance, couldn't get closer as there were no vehicle tracks to that area. As we were in a national park all vehicles have to stay on the main tracks and can't go "off road" as you can in private concessions. We will be able to go "off road" in the next 2 camps.

We looked for the lions from last night but didn't find them. Lots of birds in the grasslands - one very interesting and active bird was a "weaver", a beautiful yellow bird that builds the most amazing nests. We could watch them for ages.  Lots of unusual and colourful insects and pretty wildflowers. Headed back to camp at 11am for brunch.

 Golden weaver

Yellow billed kite 

Golden weaver nests 

Hornbill 

Kudu 

One golden weaver outside and one inside the nest  

Oryx 

Colourful butterfly 

Grasshopper 

In the middle of nowhere 

Beetle 

Kite 

Termite mound

Afternoon siesta from 12.30 to 4.30. We opted for a shorter afternoon drive of 1.5hr. Came across birds and general animals as well as a lone jackal, unusual butterflies and herds of impalas. We had our "sundowner" near the impalas before heading back to camp after another amazing sunset.

Bateleur 

Mating grasshoppers 

Green butterflies 

Jackal 

Carstom (L) and Timber (R) 

Sunset

Back at camp, the staff put on a show with african singing and dancing, great harmonies.

At dinner, a couple of new guests had arrived from Australia. Ian and Sarah Venning, father and daughter, Sarah went to Strathcona Girls School in Canterbury and knows a few daughters of friends of ours, small world. 

Bed around 9.30.

21 January 2013 - Kalahari Desert to Okavango Delta

It was our last day at Tau Pan Camp. We were doing a short nature walk this morning before flying out, so we had a sleep in till 6!

Breakfast, then bushman's walk with Carstom. He showed us all sorts of bushman survival tricks including starting a fire with sticks, how to get juice out of a tuba bulb and how to set a trap for small animals or birds with a few sticks and a piece of string. Very interesting.

Carstom starting a fire

Carstom collecting a tuba bulb

Carstom drinking the liquid from the flesh of a tuba bulb

It was a very hot morning we were all glad to get back to camp for a light brunch. Headed off to the airstrip to catch another small plane to our next camp, Little Kwara in the Okavango Delta, about 1.5hours north of Tau Pan Camp.

 Waiting for the plane

Departure lounge

 Boarding the plane

We had to go in two groups so Terry and I went in one plane which was stopping in Maun to pick up another English couple. They had been held up in London due to snow at Heathrow and missed their stay at Tau Pan but were joining their niece for the next camp. Their luggage had gone missing due to the chaos at Heathrow and they had done some basic shopping in Maun (not a lot of choice!). They were seasoned travellers and not too stressed, just tired. They were dropped off at another camp in the delta but we'd meet up again at our last camp.

On the way to Maun 

View of Maun township from the plane

We arrived at Little Kwara around 2. We were met by Master, our guide and Chester, our tracker. The rest of our group had already arrived and gone to their cabins. We were shown to ours, it was very hot outside and extremely stuffy inside the cabin. It had been closed up for a few days so took a bit of time to cool down. The water in the tap was like runny dirt which wasn't good. 

Our room at Little Kwara

We put on our bathers and went back to the small pool to cool off and rest in the slight breeze near the mess hall. We told management about the water which they were able to fix, thankfully. You can't drink any water but it is needed for showering. After a swim and a cold drink we headed back to the cabin to get ready for our afternoon safari.

Had more food and a cold drink in the mess hall before heading off in the jeep at 4.30. Little Kwara is on a private concession so the jeeps can go "off road". 

First attraction - 2 lion cubs and mum. The cubs were trying to attack a baby croc in high grasses. The croc was keeping them at bay snapping at them and whipping his tail about. We couldn't see all the action as the grass was quite long but it was fun to watch the cubs jumping about trying to attack the croc. The mum lion wasn't interested at all, just lazed in the grass close by.

Mother lion watching her cubs 

Cubs and mum watching the baby croc in the grass

Then we had an amazing drive coming across giraffe, elephant, zebra, steenbok, impala, hippo, different birds - all within an hour or so. We were all just speechless. Terry snapped off 120 photos in no time. 

 Elephant

Tsessebe

Giraffe 

 Hornbill

 Burchell's zebra

 Impala

Pied Kingfisher 

Flat tyre

Sunset at a watering hole with hippos making all sorts of noises. A G&T with a few nibbles... couldn't be better.

Hippos at sunset

Dinner at 8.30 with another 2 couples, one from Italy, one from Perth. Their last day in camp before moving up the delta to their next camp. Had a good chat about what everyone had seen.

The same routine here - an escort back to the cabin. Along the short walk Master said "snake" and of course Pam jumped, let out a small shout and hid behind Terry. Just the thing you're not meant to do! Thankfully it was only a small bush snake and slithered off, no doubt more frightened of us than we were of it. 

Bed around 10, long day, but just amazing.